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Why It Works
- Charring the tomatoes and onions gives the salsa a smoky flavor. Black garlic delivers a punch of umami and a hint of sweetness, while the black chiles add fruity and woody notes.
- Briefly heating the tortillas in lard makes them pliable and enhances their flavor.
My biggest regret in life is all the times I turned down enchiladas growing up. I had an aversion to all things saucy (yes, that included tomato sauce on pizza). So, my thoughtful mother would appease my picky eating with the dry, deep-fried relative of enchiladas, flautas. Today, I’m a sauce-lover and often opt to add multiple sauces to a single dish. These enchiladas negras, which translates to black enchiladas, are dipped and rolled in a deeply savory, smoky, dark salsa made from charred tomatoes, earthy dried chiles, and sweet, umami-packed black garlic.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Tortillas are briefly warmed in lard, dipped in the salsa, then filled with tender chicken—store-bought rotisserie for a quick weeknight option, or homemade if you prefer. The result is a plate of tender, saucy enchiladas that are rich and complex without being heavy, a delicious contrast of spice, sweetness, and smoke.
The Salsa
The inky color of the salsa comes from the combination of pasilla negro and chile de árbol, the same dried black chiles that star in my mole negro recipe. Here, they provide a fruity, earthy flavor and also help thicken the sauce once blended.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
The foundation of the recipe is umami-rich black garlic, which adds a sweet fruitiness. It makes these enchiladas go from good to unforgettable. Made by slowly fermenting whole garlic bulbs at low temperatures for several weeks, black garlic develops a deep brown color and a soft, jammy texture. Its flavor is both sweet and savory, often compared to tamarind and dates. The black garlic layers well with the charred tomato and onion, which all together boost the savoriness of the salsa. You can find black garlic at well-stocked supermarkets, Asian grocery stores, or online. If you can’t get your hands on it, regular roasted garlic will give you some of the same mellow sweetness, though the flavor won’t be as complex or darkly rich.
Why I Skip the Oven
Many enchilada recipes, especially the kind popular in the US, are made casserole-style, where the tortillas are rolled around a filling, smothered in cheese and sauce, and baked until bubbling. These are delicious, and a convenient way to make a lot of enchiladas to feed a crowd, but I find the high, dry heat of the oven robs the tortillas of their tenderness, over-crisping the edges and muting the flavor of the sauce. I prefer the traditional stovetop method used across Mexico, where each tortilla is briefly fried until just softened, dipped in sauce, and filled right before serving. This creates enchiladas that are delicate, saucy, and deeply flavorful, with every bite tasting of the chile-rich salsa rather than just baked cheese. Some people do it the other way around, where the tortillas are dipped in sauce before frying.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
I learned the technique watching my tias (aunts) make enchiladas Michoacanas, a comforting dish from Mexico’s Michoacán state. Unlike baked enchiladas, they feature a very delicate, tender tortilla that is often heated on a dry comal or skillet with a touch of lard for a savory depth.
Serving Suggestions
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
My favorite part of enchiladas is loading them up at the table. I like to let the sauce take center stage, so I stick to toppings that complement rather than compete with its bold, smoky flavor. A drizzle of crema and a sprinkle of queso fresco or cotija add a cooling creaminess, while thinly sliced cabbage and onion provide a fresh crunch. It’s a simple finish that keeps the focus on that unforgettable black salsa.
The Easy Chicken Enchiladas I Learned From My Tías (and Make Every Week)
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For the Salsa:
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1 plum or Roma tomato, halved (4 ounces; 114 g)
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1/2 medium white onion, end trimmed off, layers peeled apart and separated (4 ounces; 114 g)
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1 head black garlic, about 13 cloves, separated and peeled (33 g) (see note)
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3 pasilla negro chiles (15 g), stemmed
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3 chiles de arbol (3 g), stemmed
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1 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth
For the Tortillas and Filling:
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8 (6-inch) corn tortillas
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1 pound (435 g) finely shredded homemade roasted chicken or store-bought rotisserie chicken (from chicken; about 3 cups shredded meat)
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1 tablespoon lard, preferably leaf, plus more if needed, divided (see notes)
For Serving:
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1/2 medium white onion (4 ounces; 114 g), thinly sliced
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2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (from 1/2 head of cabbage)
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1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely minced
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Crema, for garnish
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Queso fresco or cotija cheese, for garnish
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For the Salsa: Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat oven broiler to high setting. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, then add tomato and onion layers spread in an even layer. Broil until well charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip and broil until second side is charred, about 3 more minutes. Set baking sheet aside to cool.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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In a blender jar, add charred ingredients, black garlic, chiles, and chicken stock. Blend on high until smooth, about 1 minute. Season with salt to taste.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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In a medium saucepan, add sauce and set it over low heat until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Hold sauce warm over low heat while preparing tortillas. Remove foil from cooled baking sheet and line now-empty sheet with a layer of paper towels.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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In an 8- or 10-inch skillet, melt 1 teaspoon lard over medium heat. Add 1 tortilla and cook until softened, about 10 seconds. Flip and cook for 10 seconds longer. Transfer to paper towel–lined sheet. Repeat with remaining tortillas, adding a lard, a teaspoon at a time,as the skillet dries out.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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Add shredded chicken to now-empty skillet and toss occasionally until warmed through.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
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One at a time, using tongs, dip tortillas into the sauce, then transfer to a plate. Fill tortillas with shredded chicken, then roll tortilla around chicken. Transfer to a serving platter or individual plates. Spoon remaining salsa over the enchiladas. Serve with onion, cabbage, crema, queso, and cilantro.
Serious Eats / Lorena Masso
Special Equipment
Blender, medium saucepan, 8- or 10-inch skillet
Notes
Black garlic is available at supermarkets, Asian grocers, and online. It’s made by cooking garlic at controlled humidity and temperature for at least a week to develop a concentrated, sweet, savory flavor. If unavailable, roasted garlic can be substituted.
Lard is any rendered pork fat, while leaf lard is a specific, premium type of lard.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The salsa can be made up to 5 days ahead, cooled, and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The enchiladas are best enjoyed immediately.
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